Frequently asked questions:
Why should I choose Turf-Pro for my lawn care?
The goal of our technician is to help you establish a thick, green lawn with consistent color and fewer weeds. We start with a FREE lawn analysis to evaluate your soil type, grass type, turf density, thatch, possible diseases and insects, and watering and weed control needs. Then we develop a plan to provide good health and year-round lush green color. As a local company with 25 years of experience we are confident about the quality of our work and guarantee all of our services.
I have a lot of weeds in my lawn. Is there any hope turning my lawn around?
Yes. The most important thing is to identify if the weeds are broadleaf weeds or grassy weeds. Then you can start the process of restoring your lawn using proper time-specific herbicides. Results may vary from 1-2 months up to a full year, but it can be done.
Turf-Pro sprayed my lawn a few weeks ago for weeds. Why do I have weeds back again?
Because all broadleaf weed herbicides are "post" emergent which only kills the plant there at the time it is sprayed. There are NO pre-emergent herbicides for broadleaf weeds.
My lawn is turning brown. What should I do?
Many things can cause a lawn to turn brown. Some of the common factors are lack of nutrients, lack of or too much water, fungus or insect problems. It is best to have a trained professional look at your lawn to determine the cause.
My lawn gets a lot of shade. Is there any way to have a thicker lawn?
Fully shaded lawns are very hard to thicken. However, there are some grass types that tend to do better in this environment. Creeping Red Fescue, Fine Fescue and some Bluegrass varieties are best to choose if overseeding or renovating. Giving your lawn a good soil base, proper nutrients and an annual overseeding in the fall will help to establish a thicker lawn.
My lawn is not as green since I cut my grass. Why is this?
In many cases, a lawn's color is affected by the blade of the lawn mower. More times than not a new lawn mower has a dull blade and should be sharpened before its first use. A dull blade will shred the grass instead of cutting it causing the lawn to have a dullish color and even a slight haze to the lawn.
Is there a right and a wrong method of mowing a lawn?
Yes. If your lawn mower wheels pass over the same area in the same direction each time you mow, ruts will form over time. Each time you mow, alternate the direction to reduce this problem. This method also prevents the lawn mower blade beating the grass blades in the same direction during each mowing. Remember, different grass types require different mowing heights, too.
What will aeration do for my lawn?
As lawns age or sustain heavy use from play, sports activities, pets, and traffic soil compaction can result. Compaction greatly reduces the pore space within the soil that would normally hold air. Roots require oxygen to grow and absorb nutrients and water. Compaction has a negative impact on nutrient uptake and water infiltration, in addition to being a physical barrier to root growth. This results in poor top growth and lawn deterioration. Core aeration can benefit your lawn by:
• Increasing the activity of soil microorganisms that decompose thatch.
• Increasing water, nutrient and oxygen movement into the soil.
• Improving rooting.
• Enhancing infiltration of rainfall or irrigation.
• Helping prevent fertilizer and pesticide run-off in overly compacted areas.
When should I aerate?
There are many opinions as to when lawns should be aerated. Aeration helps open the soil for oxygen, water and nutrients to travel to the root system. Turf-Pro recommends that the best times to aerate with the Southern Indiana climate is Spring (March through May) or Fall (October through November).
What is thatch?
Thatch is the layer of living and dead stems, roots, stolons, and rhizomes between the green blades of grass and the soil surface. A thin layer of thatch (less than ½’ thick) can be beneficial to the lawn because it helps to limit weed germination, reduce water evaporation, and protect from frost damage. However, thick thatch layers can prevent water, air, and nutrients from penetrating to the soil, causing reduced root growth and increased potential for drought stress. Thick thatch also favors fungal growth and can harbor insect pests.